Self Leveling Jacks

[Springtime]

Actually mine are manual but I ask this question.
When I bought the RV I was warned not to jack the RV off its wheels or at an awkward angle. The dealer then quoted instances where the windscreen had cracked or popped out due to body flexing.
I must admit that this comment was a disappointment as my dream was to arrive at site press the auto jacks button and the vehicle would find its own level without the need for ramps.
There is a guy around the corner from me who has a large European A class (a Concorde) which always seems to be up on its jacks when parked on his drive. Often the front wheels are off the ground.
Can anybody give advice on this.

Steve

[ruffingitsmoothly]

Hi Steve this has been mentioned on here before.

I have heard that because of their unusual 3 point leveling system Monacos should never have the front wheels raised clear of the ground for the alleged very reason you have stated in your post.

I have however raised the back axle off the ground to remove the rear wheels to fit valve extenders with no problems.

Whilst at Peterborough Show a few years ago when the ARV and ARVE clubs were made to park on a fairly steep bank I did notice a few smaller RVs with their front wheels in the air but they had 4 jacks and were side door entry not front as some diesel pushers are!

Regards Pat

[Damon3272]

Most RV owners manuals tell you not to lift the wheels off the ground even though the levelers are more than capable of this,I always use the jacks to change the wheels although I will not venture under it without axle stands.
In the past some RVs could level the RV with one jack at a time,this could twist the frame of the RV and I also have herd of the screens slipping out of the rubbers on some monaco's as a result of over jacking.
Mostly (apart from three jack systems)the jacks work in pairs.
Another reason not to leave the wheels hanging is when the rear wheels are off the ground you lose your park brake and with the front wheels off the ground you can pull the top out of the shock absorbers .

[Hadders]

Hi
I'm not too sure either but my system has four jacks and recently I was on a pitch which didn't look too bad on inspection but the levelling system thought otherwise. When I exited the vehicle after operating the system the front wheels were off the ground by about 3", the jacks are just before the front wheels - when inside it felt very stable. I did also notice that even though the pitch sloped down towards the front the rear jacks did lift the rear up as well, not off the ground but enough to cause the front ones to have to extend further. Does anyone know if its left on levellers that they could rust causing damage to the seals???

Thanks Andy

[olley]

Hi Andy, depends how well plated they are, hydraulic rods are chromium plated, more plate cost more money. It was explained to me years ago that if you look at a thin plate under a microscope, there are gaps between the chromium molecules, water can then get past and rust the steel under the chrome. Just keep them well greased.

Olley

[Hadders]

Thanks Olley
All about the cost isnt it - thought the would of been stainless but again cost is the issue. What sort of grease is best - do you know?
Andy

[olley]

Hi Andy I don't think it makes much difference what you use, thickest you can get I reckon.

Olley

[Damon3272]

I have been told NEVER to use grease on the hydraulic ram because this attracts dirt and grit and when retracted can ruin the ram/seal,if the rams are sticking you can clean them with a fine wire wool or wipe on a thin smear of auto trans fluid and then remove most of it so no dust /grit can remain.
The best way to lubricate them is to give them a good silicon spray regularly every week when extended this is best because it is a dry lubricant and nothing sticks to it..

[olley]

Hi Colin, if the rams where double acting you might have a point, but as HWH are only single acting there's nothing to leak at the rod end, I do wipe mine over with a greasy rag sometimes, leaving just a smear on the rod, as I believe this lubricates the seal and enough gets past the seal to lubricate the bearing a little.

We used to use brasso and even even emery paper to polish the rod when we fitted new seals but the rams where double acting and in constant use so rust wasn't a problem, but I doubt it would take much to go through the chrome plate used nowadays. My 125cc Gilera sat outside in all weathers for 12 months without use, and the downtubes became pitted.

Olley

[ruffingitsmoothly]

I have been told NEVER to use grease on the hydraulic ram because this attracts dirt and grit and when retracted can ruin the ram/seal,if the rams are sticking you can clean them with a fine wire wool or wipe on a thin smear of auto trans fluid and then remove most of it so no dust /grit can remain.
The best way to lubricate them is to give them a good silicon spray regularly every week when extended this is best because it is a dry lubricant and nothing sticks to it..

Hi Colin that's the same advice that I have always been given

Regards Pat